Balancier 3, Greubel Forsey’s new magic number The new Balancier 3 is mechanically simple, at least for a Greubel Forsey watch, and is the most affordable entry in the brand’s current lineup, while staying true to the company’s tradition of fine hand-finishing.
When Watchonista sat down with Antonio Calce in 2022, the Greubel Forsey CEO outlined his strategic vision for the premium brand in the coming years. His idea was to hit the "reset" button by charting a new path for watchmakers, not through radical change, but through a "more natural evolution."
Since our interview with Calce, Greubel Forsey has made some progress toward achieving the goals the former CEO of Corum and Sowind Group shared with us. Regaining full independence: Check. Simplifying its distribution network: Check. Increasing production to 500 watches per year: still a work in progress, but the foundations are already in place with the acquisition and development of land adjacent to the company’s existing La Chaux-de-Fonds factory.
When it comes to pure products, the gist of Calce's plan is this: It's time to make watches that are more modern, better-looking, more wearable, and more affordable, all with the goal of appealing to a wider, younger crowd.
At the same time, however, the brand needs to do all this while retaining the essence of Greubel Forsey as the inventor of some of the most lauded chronometric solutions in watchmaking and some of the best in the business. The position of advocate of manual technology. finishing.
Breitling's new 1940s-inspired chronograph is a great value
The new Breitling Premier Heritage watch is a watch specially created for watch lovers.
Those who say luck is of your own making might point to Breitling from today. The burgeoning Swiss watch company's decision to announce its new collection just a day before the Watches And Wonders online watch show (the company did not participate in the show) was decidedly opportunistic. Tomorrow, most of the 38 exhibiting brands will be launching a slew of new watches, including Rolex and TAG Heuer. Today, only Breitling's.
No matter what the time of day, news of a 1940s-inspired chronograph from the Breitling Premier Heritage collection will be compelling no matter what. They are just that good.
The series kicked off with three new models, each in two versions. The watch has a dressier, more grown-up look than the Premier, which is already Breitling's most urbane style. Underpinning it all is Breiling's powerful chronograph story that began in the early 20th century.
First up is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, which features a hand-wound movement powered by the Breitling B09 movement, essentially the now-robust B01 automatic movement, minus the rotating rotor. The daily wind can invigorate some and debilitate others. The first two versions were a modest 40mm, one in 18-carat red gold with a silver dial, and the other in steel with a dial described by the brand as "pistachio" but not lacking in The taste of avocado for millennials. . Without a doubt, this will be the most memorable of this release series.
Next up is the Premier Heritage Duograph, which breathes new life into a complication we’ve rarely seen these days: the “rattrapante,” or split-seconds chronograph, which can time two events that start at the same time but finish separately ( For example, two children race up a tree and back). Some brands, such as IWC, refer to these as dual chronographs, which may contribute to the complication. Also available in steel and red gold, both 42 mm, with blue and black dials respectively. The movement is also in-house, and another hand-wound unit is listed as Caliber B15.
From a watchmaking point of view, the pinnacle of the collection is the Premier Heritage Datora. The name 'Datora' is no stranger to Breitling antique collectors. It first appeared in the 1940s and was later used in many trendy 1960s and 1970s sports watches with date functions (well worth a bit of Googling). Now to describe this calendar watch again, it shows the day, date and moon phase. Powering these displays, as well as the watch's two-counter chronograph, is Caliber B25, an automatic movement developed by Breitling in collaboration with specialist movement maker Concepto. The material and color combinations offered here are stainless steel with a copper dial, and red gold with a silver dial.
Of course, the dial side gets the most attention, but the sapphire case back that comes with each model tells us that the story of Breitling's in-house movement project is also vivid. It takes a certain amount of confidence to push a hand-wound in-house movement these days – most consumers expect automatic movements to have a strong power reserve. The B09 and B15 are two of Breitling's 12 in-house developed movements, both boasting a 70-hour fuel tank, but that's not even the highlight. With the hand-wound movement, you can see the mechanism at a glance, while the automatic winding movement is hidden by the rotating rotor. Whether it's a Chronograph or Duograph model, the view from the back is worth the price of admission. Datora has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. All six watches are water-resistant to 100 meters, and there are plenty of them.
Aesthetically and mechanically, the Premier Heritage watch was considered an unexpected but welcome development from Breitling, which under CEO Georges Kern focused its efforts on outdoor performance ( such as last year's Quartz Endurance Pro). These six Premier Heritage watches bring a touch of old-world sophistication to the brand that will please purists, although they are unlikely to be bestsellers for Breitling. These are watches for those who love (or probably love) the mechanics of watchmaking as much as having a famous dial name on their wrist.
It's also worth noting that Mr. Cohen didn't raise prices on those products. His mission is what he calls "casual, inclusive luxury," with a good look that can be severely compromised by rising prices.
Tomorrow's torrent of watch news could wash away any thoughts of the Breitling Premier Heritage. But it won't. And there will be no luck.
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses up an atypical complication Ulysee Nardin Freak ONE goes beyond its shock-factor roots to embrace beauty, The time is adjusted by a 5N gold bezel without the need for a traditional crown. Its wheel train and flying tourbillon are integrated into the minute hand.
Mechanical watchmaking has changed dramatically over the past few decades, which is impressive for something that became technically redundant more than 50 years ago. Ulysse Nardin was the trailblazer of modernity, first with its remarkable marine chronometers throughout the 19th century and then with the first Freak in 2001. 22 years on, it's incredible to think how much luxury watchmaking finds beauty in distortion, and now, the new Ulysse Freak ONE is a very attractive watch with the devilish swagger of the original .
If you're not familiar with the history of the Ulysse Nardin Freak, then you might not know how much credit it has for its existence. It pioneered the breaking of the boundaries between engineering and aesthetics, and dispelled many preconceptions about what a watch should look like. Containing the entire gear train and flying tourbillon within the part serving as the minute hand, the traditional definition of movement, case and dial does not apply here.
If you break things down and stop to consider the technical complexity of what they've achieved, the Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE is actually a pretty simple watch for the person who wears it. The oversized silicon oscillator used by the tourbillon emits opalescent blue light and is located opposite the luminous arrow, and the entire bridge plate can be used as a minute hand when reading the time. The hour hand is actually a floating mysterious hand that spins on a sapphire disc beneath the 'movement' and maintains amazing clarity. You may have noticed that the crown doesn't protrude from the case to disrupt its profile, because instead, the time can be set by unlocking and turning the bezel without too much fuss.
Abrasion resistance isn't a high priority on statement pieces like the Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE, but the 44mm titanium case is coated in black DLC to keep its size in check. Never afraid to experiment with color, the UN opts for a classic black and gold combo, and the 18k 5N gold bezel and dial details give the Freak a surprisingly formal versatility. The integrated lug design provides three strap options, black "ballistic" textured rubber, two-tone rubber and matte black alligator strap.
Brand Ulysse Nardin Watch model monster one Case Dimensions 44mm (D) x 12mm (L) Case material DLC coated titanium and 5N gold Water resistance 30 meters crystal sapphire dial black Strap Black "ballistic" textured rubber, two-tone rubber, matte black alligator leather strap Mobile UN-240 Power reserve 72 hours
The history of Defy is somewhat murky for various reasons. As a sports watch, it has never been as popular or as culturally important as competing offerings from Rolex and Omega. Over the years, especially as the rise of vintage watches influenced contemporary design, Zenith has focused on the El Primero, sometimes at the expense of other non-chronograph offerings in its catalog. But the lineage of the new Extreme goes all the way back to the very first Defy, the A3642, which arrived in 1969 and featured the avant-garde design of the time combined with some truly next-gen watch technology. It was this Defy that created the theme template for all future Defys, including the Xtremes that appeared mid-term.
The hands-on Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT is quite possibly the best tool watch we've seen this year An all-rounder watch with a cool design and an ultra-sturdy construction.
Since the introduction of two important watches in the Tudor collection, the Black Bay GMT and the Black Bay 58, the watch industry has been looking for a hybrid of these two concepts. Basically, Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Tudor responded, but decided to make things more interesting. The result is this watch, the Tudor Black Bay Pro. Yes, it is 39mm like the BB58. Yes, it has a GMT function, just like the BB Pepsi. But no, it's not just a simple mix of the two. The BB Pro is totally different, very cool, a tool watch that does it all. And, at least for me, it really is one of the best gauges I've seen this year. But as a fan of the Explorer II (older, of course, not the big modern version), this watch somehow speaks to me. Even if we will see, it's not perfect.
If I had to sum it up, the new Tudor Black Bay Pro is the perfect adventure watch. It's sturdy and clear; it has a GMT complication for travel; it can dive; it's meant to be used and abused; Table series. The only week/business watch that isn't paired with formal attire. But then again, fewer and fewer of us actually wear suits to work. An all-around, wear-anywhere watch. Let's look at the details.
Not a BB58 with GMT... As mentioned, the new Black Bay Pro is not what some fans of the brand expected. The need for a smaller sized BB GMT is obvious (reminder, a 41mm watch with a thickness of 14.6mm and the presence of lugs to lugs), which can be done inside a BB 58 case with a bi-directional rotating bezel . However, Tudor had a different idea and created a GMT watch that is indeed more compact, but with a slightly different interpretation. We are moving away from the traditional codes of diving watches or the classic GMT inspiration and closer to the concept of the Rolex Explorer II. That means Adventure Instruments watches, which are not designed for a specific purpose but are suitable for many things. Some diving certifications, some travel abilities, make it rugged for exploration or any rough terrain, or even a design for the sky.
Base. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is a 39mm watch with a classic case from the collection. It's made from 316L stainless steel, most of it has a polished beveled brushed finish, and the sides of the case and bracelet are also polished—at least in the central part of the case, which is nothing new. The same can be said for the case back, which is visually uninteresting. The only thing worth mentioning is that it screwed in with the screw-down crown, and the Black Bay Pro is rated as a 200m water resistant watch. When it comes to the crown, you'll notice something very special - no, I'm not talking about the engraved rose logo, but its actual shape. The crown has a new design, the thin fluted profile and aluminium tubes have been replaced by the classic deeper notched crown...if you like the Rolex way,
The new bezel frames the classic domed sapphire crystal (a repeating element of all Black Bay watches that contributes to the collection’s retro look). Instead of the bi-directional rotating steel bezel with aluminium inserts, there is a fixed steel bezel with a beautiful radially brushed finish and an engraved black-filled 24-hour scale reminiscent of the 1980s. The bezel on the first-generation Explorer II was referenced to 1655. Without a doubt, this element is one of the main reasons why this watch is so cool. It's rather surprising to see it used on the Tudors, but since Rolex doesn't reference the past too much in its modern collection, the rose is certainly a great vehicle to bring back some of the crown's coolest design cues.
Now let's talk about the main topic of discussion about this Tudor Black Bay Pro: its thickness. We have seen multiple comments on our own channel and Instagram about the high rate of cases. Although we couldn't measure it (not really an option during the watch fair), the case is about 14.5mm/14.6mm tall, which is coincidentally the same as the Black Bay GMT Pepsi. This is not surprising as both have the same movement and the same water resistance. So yes, this Black Bay Pro is pretty thick, definitely thicker than the BB58 (about 12mm in height), but not too thick either. It's more of a feeling, a visual feeling, because the case is more compact and Tudor tends to make straps that extend down to the caseback and don't use a domed caseback. So yes, the watch carries some weight, but once on the wrist, the Black Bay 41 diver.
Now let's talk about the watch face and the fact that it has some special features. At first, it has a classic feel, with a domed silhouette and a matte grainy texture on black. There is a railway minute track on the perimeter, a modern shield logo and brand name at 12 o’clock, and three lines of text at 6 o’clock, including a yellow depth rate. Additionally, the applied markings feel familiar, with a combination of dots, rectangles and triangles at 12 o’clock. Except...these applied markers were not metallic and were later filled with luminous paint. These are made of luminous ceramic blocks with a slight cream colour. And the 3D effect not only looks cool, but also enhances the technical, instrument design of the watch. The hands are typical Tudor, with a snowflake silhouette and plenty of A-grade Super-LumiNova.
Most importantly, the Tudor Black Bay Professional is first and foremost a dual-hour watch with a separate 24-hour hand that can be used to display additional time zones or indicate whether it is day or night. The indications are shown here thanks to the yellow snowflake hands, once again paying homage to some brilliant vintage GMT watches from the parent brand...the feature is what is called a true GMT, which is a local time hand (main, shorter, cream-colored snowflake hand) ) in one-hour increments to move backward or forward. The date is an integral feature of a GMT watch (I agree or not, but the date is needed here), displayed through an aperture at 3 o'clock and, of course, combined with the local time hand. Overall, readability is good, day or night. All settings are done by the crown.
Like Tudor's watches, the Black Bay Pro is available in a variety of strap/bracelet options. First, and probably most relevant, is the steel bracelet. It comes with a classic rivet silhouette, is completely brushed on the flat surface and features a folding clasp. Interestingly, the latter is equipped with the T-fit trimming system (which extends up to 8mm in five positions), which was first introduced on the BB58 Bronze. The Black Bay Pro is also available on a mixed black rubber and fabric strap with a folding clasp, or a black and yellow jacquard fabric strap made by Julien Faure in France.
Inside the Tudor Black Bay Pro is the same movement as the Black Bay GMT, a Calibre MT5652 made by longtime partner Kenissi. This automatic movement is COSC chronometer-certified and features an antimagnetic silicon hairspring. In addition, the variable inertia balance is fixed by a solid transverse bridge. The movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz and, once fully wound by a bidirectional rotor, has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. In terms of accuracy, while the COSC standard is between -4 and +6 seconds, the Tudor watch insists on varying between -2 and +4 seconds when fully assembled. A well-known movement, proven reliable and accurate, with a practical GMT function. Its 7.52mm height certainly contributes to the overall thickness of the watch.
Thoughts on TUDOR BLACK BAY PRO As a fan of older versions of Explorer II, I'm definitely giving a biased opinion here, at least in terms of looks. Combining a super sturdy case, proper water resistance, a more compact diameter, and mostly this really cool fixed, radially brushed 24 hour bezel and yellow GMT hands, I must say this BB Pro is without a doubt the most attractive One of the tool/instrument watches I've seen recently. It has everything, does it all, and even looks pretty nice in metal.
Now, if you look at the facts, the Tudors have once again brought an impressive package. The overall workmanship of the watch is precise and very clean. The BB Pro comes fully equipped with a chronometer-made movement, innovative materials on the dial and a bracelet that is not only cool looking but also comfortable, sturdy and adjustable. It's magnetically shielded, it's diving, it has a practical GMT function, and it's full of historical references that would keep watch nerds like me and even a wider audience looking for interesting tool watches.
It's hard to say, but there's nothing to complain about here, especially considering the retail price of Tudor watches. The height of the case will undoubtedly push some away, but not me. And this Black Bay Pro will certainly look different from the BB58 GMT some have come to expect, so it may not be as desirable as a more classic Pepsi watch. But as far as I'm concerned, I really like this new Tudor...
Technical Specifications – TUDOR BLACK BAY PRO Case: Diameter 39 mm x approx. 14.6 mm high - Stainless steel case (316L), satin-brushed with polished decorations - Fixed radially brushed bezel with engraved black filled 24 hour markers - Sapphire crystal, dome and anti-reflective - Screw-down crown and case back Cover - 200 meters waterproof - resistant Dial: Domed-grained matt black - Snowflake hands with Super-LumiNova coating - Yellow GMT hands - Integrated luminous ceramic applied hour-markers - Date at 3 o'clock Movement: Caliber MT5652 - Manufacture (Kenissi) - COSC-certified chronometer - Automatic bidirectional central oscillating weight - 31.8mm x 7.52mm - 28 jewels - 28,800 vibrations/hour - antimagnetic silicon balance spring - variable inertia balance with transverse Bridge - 70 hour power reserve - hours, minutes, seconds (hacking), 24 hour hands, instantaneous date Bracelet: studded stainless steel bracelet, polished and satin-finished, T-shaped micro-adjustment folding clasp (up to 8 mm) - also available with mixed rubber and textile straps with stainless steel folding clasp and safety clasp, or with black textile strap Yellow strap and buckle Reference: M79470-0001 Steel Strap M79470-0002 Fabric Strap M79470-0003 Hybrid Strap
The science behind the world's lightest graphene watch The new report details the collaboration between Richard Mille, McLaren and the National Graphene Institute
In January 2017, the world's lightest mechanical chronograph was unveiled in Geneva, Switzerland, demonstrating the development of innovative composite materials using graphene.
The research behind the project has now been published. This unique precision design watch is the result of a collaboration between Manchester University, Richard Mille Watches and McLaren Applied.
The RM 50-03 watch is made of a unique graphene composite material. The strong and lightweight new case houses the watch device, and the total weight including the strap is only 40 grams.
This cooperation is an excellent project to explore the correct arrangement of graphene in composite materials to make full use of the highest performance of the mechanical stiffness and strength of the two-dimensional material without adding other heavier materials.
Jacob & Co. EPIC X CHRONO ROSE GOLD BLUE BEZEL Watch Replica EC314.42.PD.LN.A.HB4D Jacob and Co Watch Price
REFERENCE:
EC314.42.PD.LN.A.HB4D MATERIAL: Titanium Grade 5 and 18K Rose Gold; Blue Ceramic Pushers and Crown THICKNESS: 14 mm DIAMETER: 47 mm POWER RESERVE: 48-Hours MOVEMENT CALIBER: Caliber: Exclusive Semi-Skeleton Column-Wheel Bi-CompaxChronograph, Self-Winding Jacob&Co JCAA05 WATER RESISTANCE: 30 meters FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Tue Dec 12, 2023 7:49 am
